The next step was "truing" the pattern. Clara took her French curve and straight rulers to connect the dotted lines left by the tracing wheel, smoothing out the wobbles.
With her fresh paper pattern cut out, Clara was ready for the ultimate test: the muslin toile. She cut the pattern pieces out of cheap unbleached cotton and basted them together on her sewing machine. Patternmaking for a Perfect Fit: Using the Rub-...
She decided it was time to learn the holy grail of custom dressmaking: pattern drafting through the "rub-off" method, also known as creating a trace-off or a cloned pattern. 🧥 The Discovery of the Method The next step was "truing" the pattern
Taking her fine pins, she pushed them straight down through the seam lines of the jacket, through the paper, and into the corkboard below. She placed a pin every half-inch along the curved armscye and the collar. She cut the pattern pieces out of cheap
She then had to add what the rub-off method doesn't naturally give you: seam allowances. Using her clear gridded ruler, she meticulously drew a parallel line 5/8 of an inch outside her traced seam lines.
She stood before her full-length mirror and slipped the muslin over her shoulders. She held her breath and looked.